Add WAW timeline, fix Belfast, remove orphan files

- WAW: add Aug 8–28 day-by-day timeline anchored to Aug 30 Dublin deadline Sections mapped to dates with buffer day Aug 29; workation bases called out Fix contradictory wind/direction note — direction is confirmed N→S Expand section descriptions (Sky Road, Slea Head, Dingle detail) - Belfast: add EV charging section; fix broken reference 08→07-wild-atlantic-way Update ferry info to Steam Packet (IoM→Belfast direct, seasonal) - Remove stale orphan files from first draft: 02-hoek-van-holland.md, 03-england-harwich-to-ferry.md
2026-08-03 13:18:54 +02:00
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@@ -1,38 +0,0 @@
 # Hoek van Holland → Harwich Ferry
 > **Type:** Ferry crossing + departure port
 > **Recommended stay:** Pass-through (arrive, board, sleep)
 > **Best for:** Overnight ferry crossing
 ## Why It Matters
 Hoek van Holland is the departure point for the Stena Line overnight crossing to Harwich, England. It's a functional port town — not a destination itself — but the ferry crossing is one of the classic North Sea routes and a comfortable way to wake up in England.
 ## The Ferry: Stena Line Hook of Holland–Harwich
 - **Operator:** Stena Line
 - **Route:** Hoek van Holland → Harwich (Parkeston Quay)
 - **Duration:** ~6.5 hours overnight
 - **Typical departure:** ~22:00 (check your booking)
 - **Arrival:** ~08:30 local time (UK is UTC+1 in August, same as Netherlands)
 - **Cabins:** Book a cabin — the seats-only option is uncomfortable for a night crossing
 - **Amenities:** Restaurant, bar, duty-free, cinema
 ### Booking
 - Book at [stenaline.co.uk](https://www.stenaline.co.uk) or [stenaline.nl](https://www.stenaline.nl)
 - Bring the car: drive-on/drive-off
 - Arrive at port **at least 45–60 min before departure**
 ## Hoek van Holland Town
 If you arrive early, the town has a beach and promenade worth a walk. The North Sea beach (Strandweg) is a good place to stretch before boarding.
 ## Practical Info
 - **Port address:** Stationsweg 10, 3151 HN Hoek van Holland
 - **Parking:** Leave your car in the hold — no onshore parking needed
 - **Currency:** Bring GBP for UK arrival; cards widely accepted on ferry
 - **Phone/data:** Netherlands is EU roaming; UK is not (check your plan before the crossing)
 ## On Arrival: Harwich
 See `03-harwich-england.md` for what to do after docking.
 ## Links
 - [Stena Line Hook–Harwich](https://www.stenaline.co.uk/ferry/hook-of-holland-harwich)
@@ -1,60 +0,0 @@
 # Harwich & Onward: England
 > **Type:** Arrival port + starting point in England
 > **Recommended stay:** Pass-through or 0.5 days
 > **Best for:** Orientation, first morning in England
 ## Arrival at Harwich
 You dock at Harwich International Port (Parkeston Quay). The ferry arrives around 08:30. Immigration for non-EU passengers; UK citizens/residents use e-gates. Drive off the ferry and you're immediately in Suffolk.
 ## Decision Point: Which Way to the Isle of Man Ferry?
 The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company runs ferries from two ports:
 - **Heysham** (near Lancaster, Lancashire) — more frequent, ~3.5h from Harwich
 - **Liverpool** — seasonal/less frequent but a better city to stop in
 **Recommendation:** Head to Liverpool via the most scenic possible route through England. ~5–6h drive, but worth stopping.
 ---
 ## Recommended Stops: Harwich → Liverpool
 ### Cambridge — 1.5h from Harwich
 One of the world's great university cities. Worth at minimum a 2–3h stop.
 - **The Backs** — the famous view of King's, Clare, and other colleges from the riverside meadows
 - **King's College Chapel** — Gothic masterpiece; free to walk past, entry fee to go inside
 - **Punt on the Cam** — hire a punt and pole down the river; quintessentially Cambridge
 - **Market Square** — Central, lively, good street food
 ### Peak District — 3h from Cambridge
 National Park with moorland, dales, and stone villages. Good for a night if you want to slow down.
 - **Chatsworth House** — Enormous stately home with immaculate gardens (Downton Abbey vibes)
 - **Dovedale** — Limestone gorge with stepping stones across the River Dove; easy 2h walk
 - **Bakewell** — Town famous for the Bakewell tart; good base for walks
 ### York — 2h from Harwich, or a detour
 If you go via the A1 north, York is unmissable.
 - **York Minster** — One of Europe's greatest Gothic cathedrals; the stained glass is extraordinary
 - **The Shambles** — Medieval street with overhanging houses; now touristy but still beautiful
 - **City walls** — Walk the full circuit of Roman/medieval walls around the old city (2h)
 - **JORVIK Viking Centre** — Good if you're interested in the Viking history of the city
 ### Lake District — 1.5h from Heysham/Liverpool
 If time allows: a night here before the Isle of Man ferry is spectacular.
 - **Windermere / Ambleside** — Most accessible entry point
 - **Scafell Pike** — England's highest peak (978m); 4–5h hike
 - **Langdale Valley** — Dramatic fells without the Windermere crowds
 - **Grasmere** — Wordsworth's village; lovely and small
 ---
 ## Practical Info
 - **Driving in UK:** Left side of the road. Roundabouts give way to traffic already on them. Speed cameras everywhere on A-roads.
 - **Fuel:** Fill up before heading into national parks where stations are sparse
 - **Mobile data:** UK is outside EU — check your provider for roaming charges
 ## Links
 - [Visit Cambridge](https://www.visitcambridge.org)
 - [Peak District NP](https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk)
 - [Visit York](https://www.visityork.org)
 - [Lake District NP](https://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk)
@@ -35,16 +35,25 @@ If you have a second day, the Causeway Coast east of Belfast is unmissable.
 ---
 ## EV Charging in Belfast
 Belfast has solid rapid charging infrastructure.
 - **Applegreen / ESB ecars** rapid chargers in the city centre and at major retail parks
 - **Titanic Quarter:** ESB charger near the museum — convenient if you're visiting anyway
 - **Sprucefield Retail Park** (south of city, M1): fast chargers on the route toward Dublin/Donegal
 - Treat Belfast as a full recharge before heading into the sparse Donegal network
 ---
 ## Practical Info
 - **Currency:** British Pounds (GBP) — Northern Ireland is part of the UK
 - **Note:** Republic of Ireland uses Euros (EUR); the border is invisible but the currency changes
 - **Driving:** Left side (same as rest of UK/Isle of Man)
- **Ferry from Isle of Man:** Stena Line Liverpool–Belfast is the main route; some Steam Packet sailings seasonal. Check [stenaline.co.uk](https://www.stenaline.co.uk)
+- **Ferry from Isle of Man:** Steam Packet Company Douglas → Belfast (seasonal); check [steam-packet.com](https://www.steam-packet.com). Stena Line also serves Belfast from Liverpool/Cairnryan.
 ## Onward: Into Ireland
 From Belfast, cross the border into the Republic (invisible since the Good Friday Agreement — no passport control). Head northwest toward Donegal to start the Wild Atlantic Way at its northern end.
-See `08-wild-atlantic-way.md`.
+See `07-wild-atlantic-way.md`.
 ## Links
 - [Visit Belfast](https://visitbelfast.com)
@@ -12,129 +12,155 @@ The Wild Atlantic Way is a signed coastal driving/cycling route along Ireland's
 ## Direction & Strategy
-**Prevailing wind:** From the southwest. Cycling **south to north** (Cork → Donegal) puts the wind at your back for Atlantic-facing sections.
+**Direction: North to south** — starting in Donegal after arriving in Belfast, finishing in Kerry before driving to Dublin for Aug 30.
-**Recommended start if arriving Belfast:** Drive/ferry to Donegal and cycle south. More dramatic landscapes in the north; wind becomes less critical if you plan shorter days.
+**Wind:** The prevailing wind is from the southwest, so expect headwinds on exposed Atlantic-facing sections cycling north to south. This is the tradeoff for starting in the more dramatic, less-touristed north. Plan shorter daily distances on the Donegal and Mayo coast where the wind is worst, and front-load rest days early in the trip rather than late.
-**Recommended start if arriving Dublin:** Head south to Kerry and cycle north — wind-assisted, builds to the Connemara/Mayo climax.
+---
-This guide covers **north to south** (Belfast/Donegal → Cork), which is the official signposted direction.
+## Rough Timeline: Aug ~8 → Aug 28
 **Assumption:** Ferry Belfast → Douglas (IoM) around Aug 4–7, IoM for 2–3 days, then ferry IoM → Belfast arriving roughly **Aug 7–9**. Adjust dates to match your actual IoM ferry.
 The deadline is **Dublin by Aug 29** (day before the game). That gives 20–21 days for the WAW. This is a workation — build in working days, not just travel days.
 | Dates (approx) | Section | Days | Notes |
 |----------------|---------|------|-------|
 | Aug 8–9 | Belfast → Donegal Town | 2 | Drive/transit to start; settle in |
 | Aug 10–12 | **Donegal** | 3 | Slieve League, Glenveagh, Malin Head — most remote, give it time |
 | Aug 13–14 | **Sligo** | 2 | Benbulben, Carrowmore, surf beach at Strandhill |
 | Aug 15–17 | **Mayo** | 3 | Westport (base), Achill Island, Croagh Patrick |
 | Aug 18–20 | **Connemara** | 3 | Clifden, Sky Road, Kylemore Abbey — charge in Galway before |
 | Aug 21–22 | **Galway** | 2 | City day(s); Aran Islands day trip from Rossaveal |
 | Aug 23–24 | **Clare** | 2 | Cliffs of Moher, The Burren, Doolin sessions |
 | Aug 25–27 | **Kerry** | 3 | Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Skellig Michael (if booked) |
 | Aug 28 | Kerry → Dublin | 1 | Drive ~3h Killarney → Dublin; arrive, settle, rest |
 | **Aug 29** | Dublin | Buffer | Free day, explore city, pre-match prep |
 | **Aug 30** | **GAME DAY** | — | College Football at Aviva Stadium |
 **Total:** 21 days. One rest/work day built into most multi-day sections — use Westport, Galway, and Clifden as work bases (good cafés and reliable wifi).
 **If you arrive Belfast later (e.g. Aug 10):** Compress Donegal to 2 days and skip Malin Head, or cut the Aran Islands day trip from the Galway section. Kerry is non-negotiable — don't compress it.
 ---
 ## Key Sections (North to South)
-### 1. Donegal — 1–3 days
+### 1. Donegal — Aug 10–12 (3 days)
 The wildest, most remote part of the route. Few tourists, dramatic cliffs, ancient towers.
 **Must-see:**
- **Slieve League Cliffs** — Three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, a fraction of the crowds. The highest sea cliffs in Europe accessible on foot. Walk the "One Man's Pass" ridge for vertigo and views.
+- **Slieve League Cliffs** — Three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, a fraction of the crowds. Walk the "One Man's Pass" ridge for vertigo and views.
 - **Glenveagh National Park** — Vast bog and mountain wilderness; red deer, golden eagles reintroduced. Castle on a loch.
- **Inishowen Peninsula** — Ireland's northernmost point (Malin Head). Dramatic and very remote.
+- **Inishowen Peninsula / Malin Head** — Ireland's northernmost point. Dramatic and very remote. Only worth it if you have the third day.
 - **Fanad Head Lighthouse** — One of Ireland's most photogenic lighthouses
- **Donegal Town** — Small but the Diamond (central square) is lively; good base
+- **Donegal Town** — The Diamond (central square) is lively; good base and the best EV charging hub in the county
-**Cycling note:** Roads are narrow, hilly, and quiet. This is the hardest section but also the most rewarding.
+**Cycling note:** Roads are narrow, hilly, and quiet. This is the hardest section for wind and terrain but the most rewarding. Don't skip it.
 ---
-### 2. Sligo — 1–2 days
+### 2. Sligo — Aug 13–14 (2 days)
-W.B. Yeats country. Gentler than Donegal, with excellent beaches.
+W.B. Yeats country. Gentler than Donegal, excellent beaches.
 **Must-see:**
- **Benbulben** — The flat-topped mountain that dominates the landscape; Yeats is buried in the churchyard at its foot (Drumcliff)
+- **Benbulben** — The flat-topped mountain that dominates the landscape; Yeats is buried in the churchyard at its foot (Drumcliff). Drive or cycle past — you see it from everywhere.
- **Strandhill & Enniscrone** — Atlantic surf beaches; Strandhill has good food and a seaweed bath house
+- **Strandhill** — Atlantic surf beach with a good food scene and a traditional seaweed bath house (Voya)
- **Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery** — One of the largest and oldest megalithic cemeteries in Europe (older than Newgrange and Stonehenge)
+- **Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery** — One of the largest megalithic cemeteries in Europe, older than Newgrange. Free to walk, small entry fee for the main tombs.
- **Sligo town** — Good food scene, lively for its size
+- **Sligo town** — Good food scene, lively for its size; use it as a work base
 ---
-### 3. Mayo — 2–3 days
+### 3. Mayo — Aug 15–17 (3 days)
 One of the spiritual and scenic highlights of the route.
 **Must-see:**
- **Croagh Patrick** — Ireland's holiest mountain; pilgrims climb it barefoot on the last Sunday of July. The cone-shaped summit above Clew Bay is one of Ireland's iconic views.
+- **Westport** — Best small town in Ireland, regularly voted so. Planned Georgian town on the Carrowbeg River. Best base in Mayo: good pubs, great food, reliable wifi, EV charging.
- **Achill Island** — Ireland's largest island, connected by a bridge. Keem Bay (a pristine blue beach in a cliffside amphitheatre) and the deserted village on the slopes of Slievemore are both extraordinary. Excellent cycling.
+- **Achill Island** — Ireland's largest island, connected by a bridge. **Keem Bay** (pristine blue beach in a cliffside amphitheatre) and the Slievemore deserted village are extraordinary. Excellent, quiet cycling roads.
- **Westport** — Best small town in Ireland, regularly voted so. Planned Georgian town on the Carrowbeg River. Good pubs, great food, base for Achill and Croagh Patrick.
+- **Croagh Patrick** — Ireland's holiest mountain; iconic cone shape above Clew Bay. The 4h round-trip hike is well worth it on a clear day.
- **Céide Fields** — The world's most extensive Stone Age monument: 5,000-year-old field systems, houses, and tombs preserved under the bog
+- **Céide Fields** — The world's most extensive Stone Age monument: 5,000-year-old field systems under the bog. On the north Mayo coast, good detour if passing.
 ---
-### 4. Connemara — 2–3 days
+### 4. Connemara — Aug 18–20 (3 days)
 The most haunting landscape in Ireland. Bogland, quartzite mountains, flooded inlets, wild ponies.
 **Must-see:**
 - **Sky Road (Clifden)** — 16km circular coastal road from Clifden with elevated views over the Atlantic and offshore islands. One of Ireland's best cycling roads; manageable even loaded.
 - **Connemara National Park** — Twelve Bens mountain range; bog walks, guided hill walks. Visitor centre at Letterfrack.
- **Sky Road (Clifden)** — Circular coastal road from Clifden with elevated views over the Atlantic and offshore islands. One of Ireland's best cycling roads.
+- **Kylemore Abbey** — Gothic castle-turned-Benedictine monastery on a lake with a walled Victorian garden. Touristy but genuinely beautiful.
- **Kylemore Abbey** — Gothic castle-turned-Benedictine monastery on a lake; stunning setting
+- **Clifden** — The "capital" of Connemara; best base for the section. ESB charger here.
- **Inishbofin Island** — Ferry from Cleggan; quiet island with beaches and good walking
+- **Inishbofin Island** — Ferry from Cleggan; quiet island with beaches. Worth it if you have a spare half-day.
 - **Clifden** — The "capital" of Connemara; good base for the area
-**Cycling note:** The N59 through Connemara is manageable but busy in summer. Inland bog roads are magical and quiet.
+**Cycling note:** The N59 through Connemara is manageable but busy in August. The inland bog roads (L-roads) are magical and almost car-free. Prefer these where they run parallel.
 ---
-### 5. Galway — 1–2 days
+### 5. Galway — Aug 21–22 (2 days)
 Ireland's most vibrant city outside Dublin. University town, Gaeltacht gateway, live music every night.
 **Must-see:**
- **Latin Quarter** — Medieval streets; Tigh Neachtain pub is the traditional music epicentre
+- **Latin Quarter** — Medieval streets; Tigh Neachtain pub is the traditional music epicentre. Most pubs have sessions Sun–Thu as well as weekends in August.
- **Aran Islands** — Ferry from Rossaveal or Doolin. Inis Mór is the largest: ancient stone forts (Dún Aonghasa teeters on a 100m cliff edge), limestone "moonscape," cycling on quiet roads. Stay overnight for the full effect.
+- **Aran Islands (Inis Mór)** — Day trip or overnight from Rossaveal (40 min ferry). Ancient stone forts — Dún Aonghasa perches on a 100m cliff edge. Rent a bike on the island; roads are quiet and flat-ish.
- **Salthill Promenade** — Walk the prom, kick the wall at the end (local tradition)
+- **Salthill Promenade** — Walk the prom, kick the wall at the end (local tradition, taken seriously)
- **Spanish Arch** — Medieval arch on the river; small stone market area
+- **Food:** Ard Bia at Nimmos, Cava Bodega, Dela — Galway punches above its weight
 **Work note:** Galway has the best coffee shops and coworking spaces on the entire WAW. Good place to book a longer stay and work for a couple of days.
 ---
-### 6. Clare — 1–2 days
+### 6. Clare — Aug 23–24 (2 days)
 The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher.
 **Must-see:**
- **Cliffs of Moher** — 8km of sea cliffs up to 214m. Ireland's most visited natural attraction. Go early morning or late evening to avoid the worst crowds. The walk south from the visitor centre to Hag's Head is excellent.
+- **Cliffs of Moher** — 8km of sea cliffs up to 214m. Go early (before 9am) or late evening to avoid coach crowds. Walk south from the visitor centre to Hag's Head for the best views without the crowd.
- **The Burren** — A unique limestone karst landscape covering 250km². Arctic, Mediterranean, and alpine flowers grow side by side. Walk the Green Road above Ballyvaughan or any of the looped trails.
+- **The Burren** — Unique limestone karst landscape. Arctic, Mediterranean, and alpine flowers grow side by side in the cracks. Walk the Green Road above Ballyvaughan or the Burren Way.
- **Doolin** — The spiritual home of traditional Irish music. Three pubs (McGann's, Gus O'Connor's, McDermott's) with sessions every night. Small village, big reputation.
+- **Doolin** — Spiritual home of traditional Irish music. Three pubs (McGann's, Gus O'Connor's, McDermott's) with sessions every night in August. Small village, enormous reputation.
- **Poulnabrone Dolmen** — Portal tomb on the Burren; 5,500 years old
+- **Poulnabrone Dolmen** — Striking portal tomb on open Burren limestone; 5,500 years old
 ---
-### 7. Kerry — 2–3 days
+### 7. Kerry — Aug 25–27 (3 days)
-The iconic postcard Ireland: ring roads, peninsulas, dramatic mountains.
+The iconic postcard Ireland: peninsulas, dramatic mountains, the best seafood in the country.
 **Must-see:**
- **Dingle Peninsula** — More intimate than the Ring of Kerry, less touristy, arguably more beautiful. The Slea Head Drive (25km loop from Dingle town) passes beehive huts (clochán), ruined forts, the Blasket Islands viewpoint, and Connor Pass. Dingle town has great seafood and traditional music.
+- **Dingle Peninsula** — More intimate than the Ring of Kerry, less touristy, arguably more beautiful. The **Slea Head Drive** (25km loop from Dingle town) passes 6th-century beehive huts (clochán), ruined stone forts, the Blasket Islands viewpoint, and Connor Pass (highest mountain pass in Ireland driveable by road). Dingle town has the best seafood and music on the peninsula.
- **Ring of Kerry** — The classic 180km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula: Killarney National Park, Kenmare, Waterville, Cahersiveen, Portmagee (Skelligs gateway). Busy with tourist coaches in summer — cycle it or drive counterclockwise to avoid the coach direction.
+- **Ring of Kerry** — The classic 180km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula: Killarney National Park, Kenmare, Waterville, Portmagee. Busy with tourist coaches — drive or cycle counterclockwise (opposite to the coach direction) to avoid head-on traffic.
- **Skellig Michael** — UNESCO World Heritage Site; early Christian monastic settlement on a sea stack 12km offshore. Puffins, dramatic steps, Star Wars filming location. **Book months in advance.** Boats from Portmagee and Ballinskelligs.
+- **Skellig Michael** — UNESCO World Heritage Site; early Christian monastic settlement on a sea stack 12km offshore. Puffins, 618 stone steps, Star Wars filming location. **Book months in advance — if you haven't yet, check now.** Boats from Portmagee and Ballinskelligs.
- **Killarney National Park** — The lakes, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, and the Gap of Dunloe (a glacial valley; hire a jaunting car or walk)
+- **Killarney National Park** — The lakes, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, the Gap of Dunloe. Good final day before heading to Dublin.
-**Cycling note:** The Dingle Peninsula is excellent for cycling. The Ring of Kerry is doable but has significant traffic in summer — a local cycle sportive (Ring of Kerry Charity Cycle) runs in July.
+**Cycling note:** The Dingle Peninsula is excellent — quiet roads, spectacular scenery, manageable gradients. The Ring of Kerry has significant traffic in summer; if cycling, start before 8am and go counterclockwise.
 ---
 ## EV Charging on the Wild Atlantic Way
-The west coast has significant charging gaps — this requires more planning than mainland Europe. The ESB ecars network is the primary public infrastructure in Ireland.
+The west coast has significant charging gaps. The ESB ecars network is the primary public infrastructure.
-**General strategy:** Charge at every opportunity in towns, don't rely on finding a charger in remote areas. A rule of thumb: if you're leaving a town with a charger, top up even if you don't strictly need to.
+**General rule:** Charge at every opportunity in towns. If you're leaving somewhere with a charger, top up even if you don't strictly need to.
-### Section-by-section charging
+### Section-by-section
 | Section | Situation | Key chargers |
 |---------|-----------|--------------|
-| **Donegal** | Sparse — worst section for EV | Letterkenny (22kW ESB), Donegal Town (ESB), Bundoran. Gaps of 60–80km on the coast road. |
+| **Donegal** | Sparse — worst section | Letterkenny (22kW ESB), Donegal Town (ESB), Bundoran. Gaps of 60–80km on the coast road. |
-| **Sligo** | Reasonable | Sligo town has multiple ESB chargers incl. fast; Enniscrone has a slow charger |
+| **Sligo** | Reasonable | Sligo town has multiple ESB incl. fast; Enniscrone has a slow charger |
-| **Mayo** | Patchy | Westport (ESB fast), Castlebar, Ballina. Achill Island has a slow charger at Keel — charge in Westport before going to Achill. |
+| **Mayo** | Patchy | Westport (ESB fast), Castlebar, Ballina. Achill Island: slow charger at Keel — charge in Westport before going out to Achill. |
-| **Connemara** | Most challenging after Donegal | Clifden has an ESB charger (22kW); Letterfrack area is a dead zone. Galway city is the reliable anchor before and after. |
+| **Connemara** | Most challenging after Donegal | Clifden (ESB 22kW); Letterfrack is a dead zone. Galway city is the reliable anchor before and after. |
-| **Galway** | Good | Multiple ESB rapid chargers in city; Tesla SC at Galway Retail Park. Treat this as a full recharge stop. |
+| **Galway** | Good | Multiple ESB rapid chargers; Tesla SC at Galway Retail Park. Full recharge stop. |
 | **Clare** | Reasonable | Ennis (ESB fast), Ennistymon, Lahinch. No rapid charger at Cliffs of Moher — charge in Ennis or Lahinch first. |
-| **Kerry** | Good coverage in towns | Killarney (ESB fast + Tesla SC), Tralee, Dingle (22kW ESB), Kenmare. Ring of Kerry road has no chargers mid-circuit — full battery before starting. |
+| **Kerry** | Good in towns | Killarney (ESB fast + Tesla SC), Tralee, Dingle (22kW ESB), Kenmare. Ring of Kerry road has no chargers mid-circuit — start with a full battery. |
-### Tips
+**Critical gaps:**
- **App:** ESB ecars app for live availability; Zap-Map Ireland for broader network view
+- **Connemara:** Clifden ↔ Westport via coast road (~90km) has no public charger mid-route. Charge fully at one end.
- **Speed reality:** Most rural ESB chargers are 22kW AC (fast, not rapid) — plan 1–1.5h stops in smaller towns
+- **Donegal coast:** Slieve League / Glencolmcille area has no chargers. Base yourself in Killybegs or Donegal Town and do day trips.
 - **Accommodation:** Ask when booking if the property has a socket or charger — many rural B&Bs and hotels in Kerry and Galway now have at least a 7kW home charger
 - **Connemara gap:** The stretch from Clifden north to Westport (~90km of coast road) is the most exposed gap on the whole route. Charge fully in Clifden or Westport before attempting the other direction.
 - **Donegal gap:** The Slieve League / Glencolmcille area has no public chargers. Plan a there-and-back with Killybegs or Donegal Town as your base with charging.
-### Useful links
+**Tips:**
 - Most rural ESB chargers are 22kW AC — plan 1–1.5h stops in smaller towns
 - Ask your accommodation about charging on arrival — many Kerry and Galway hotels now have 7kW sockets
 - Apps: ESB ecars (Ireland), Zap-Map (broader)
 **Links:**
 - [ESB ecars map](https://esb.ie/ecars/charge-point-map)
 - [Zap-Map Ireland](https://www.zap-map.com/charge-points/ireland/)
@@ -142,13 +168,14 @@ The west coast has significant charging gaps — this requires more planning tha
 ## Practical Cycling Notes
- **Bike hire:** Available in major towns (Galway, Westport, Killarney, Dingle). For a serious tour, bring your own.
+- **Bike:** For a multi-week loaded tour, bring your own. Hire is available in Galway, Westport, Killarney, Dingle if not.
- **Panniers vs backpack:** Panniers strongly recommended — the headwinds on Atlantic-exposed roads are brutal
+- **Panniers vs backpack:** Panniers essential — Atlantic headwinds on exposed sections are relentless
- **Camping:** Wild camping is legal in Ireland with landowner permission; good campsites along the whole route
+- **Camping:** Wild camping with landowner permission is legal; good sites along the whole route
- **Hostels:** Abundant, especially in tourist towns; An Óige (Irish Youth Hostel Association) has properties on the route
+- **Hostels:** An Óige (Irish Youth Hostel Association) has properties at key WAW points
- **Food:** You will never be more than 20km from a shop or pub. Hot food available in most pubs until early evening.
+- **Food:** Never more than 20km from a pub serving hot food. Pubs stop food service around 9pm.
- **Weather:** August is the best month but expect rain — pack waterproofs. Atlantic squalls can arrive fast.
+- **Weather:** August is best but pack waterproofs — Atlantic squalls arrive without warning
- **Gaeltacht areas:** Parts of Connemara, Mayo coast, and Donegal are Irish-speaking. Signs are in Irish first (with English below). People are delighted if you try even one word.
+- **Gaeltacht:** Connemara, north Mayo coast, and Donegal are Irish-speaking. Signs are Irish-first. Any attempt at Irish is met with delight.
 - **Workation bases:** Westport, Galway, Dingle, and Killarney all have good cafés and reliable wifi
 ---