Till Mueller
1c0d39d99f
- WAW: add Aug 8–28 day-by-day timeline anchored to Aug 30 Dublin deadline Sections mapped to dates with buffer day Aug 29; workation bases called out Fix contradictory wind/direction note — direction is confirmed N→S Expand section descriptions (Sky Road, Slea Head, Dingle detail) - Belfast: add EV charging section; fix broken reference 08→07-wild-atlantic-way Update ferry info to Steam Packet (IoM→Belfast direct, seasonal) - Remove stale orphan files from first draft: 02-hoek-van-holland.md, 03-england-harwich-to-ferry.md
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Wild Atlantic Way — Cycling Ireland's West Coast
Type: Long-distance cycling route Total length: ~2,500 km (full route; select sections as suits) Recommended: 2–4 weeks for a meaningful section; 6+ weeks for the full coast Best for: Cycling, coastal scenery, cliffs, peninsulas, Gaeltacht culture
What Is It
The Wild Atlantic Way is a signed coastal driving/cycling route along Ireland's entire west coast, from Donegal in the north to Cork in the south. It is the world's longest defined coastal route. The west coast is the windward side of Ireland — constantly changing light, dramatic cliffs, remote peninsulas, and a chain of Irish-speaking (Gaeltacht) communities keeping old culture alive.
Direction & Strategy
Direction: North to south — starting in Donegal after arriving in Belfast, finishing in Kerry before driving to Dublin for Aug 30.
Wind: The prevailing wind is from the southwest, so expect headwinds on exposed Atlantic-facing sections cycling north to south. This is the tradeoff for starting in the more dramatic, less-touristed north. Plan shorter daily distances on the Donegal and Mayo coast where the wind is worst, and front-load rest days early in the trip rather than late.
Rough Timeline: Aug ~8 → Aug 28
Assumption: Ferry Belfast → Douglas (IoM) around Aug 4–7, IoM for 2–3 days, then ferry IoM → Belfast arriving roughly Aug 7–9. Adjust dates to match your actual IoM ferry.
The deadline is Dublin by Aug 29 (day before the game). That gives 20–21 days for the WAW. This is a workation — build in working days, not just travel days.
| Dates (approx) | Section | Days | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aug 8–9 | Belfast → Donegal Town | 2 | Drive/transit to start; settle in |
| Aug 10–12 | Donegal | 3 | Slieve League, Glenveagh, Malin Head — most remote, give it time |
| Aug 13–14 | Sligo | 2 | Benbulben, Carrowmore, surf beach at Strandhill |
| Aug 15–17 | Mayo | 3 | Westport (base), Achill Island, Croagh Patrick |
| Aug 18–20 | Connemara | 3 | Clifden, Sky Road, Kylemore Abbey — charge in Galway before |
| Aug 21–22 | Galway | 2 | City day(s); Aran Islands day trip from Rossaveal |
| Aug 23–24 | Clare | 2 | Cliffs of Moher, The Burren, Doolin sessions |
| Aug 25–27 | Kerry | 3 | Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Skellig Michael (if booked) |
| Aug 28 | Kerry → Dublin | 1 | Drive ~3h Killarney → Dublin; arrive, settle, rest |
| Aug 29 | Dublin | Buffer | Free day, explore city, pre-match prep |
| Aug 30 | GAME DAY | — | College Football at Aviva Stadium |
Total: 21 days. One rest/work day built into most multi-day sections — use Westport, Galway, and Clifden as work bases (good cafés and reliable wifi).
If you arrive Belfast later (e.g. Aug 10): Compress Donegal to 2 days and skip Malin Head, or cut the Aran Islands day trip from the Galway section. Kerry is non-negotiable — don't compress it.
Key Sections (North to South)
1. Donegal — Aug 10–12 (3 days)
The wildest, most remote part of the route. Few tourists, dramatic cliffs, ancient towers.
Must-see:
- Slieve League Cliffs — Three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, a fraction of the crowds. Walk the "One Man's Pass" ridge for vertigo and views.
- Glenveagh National Park — Vast bog and mountain wilderness; red deer, golden eagles reintroduced. Castle on a loch.
- Inishowen Peninsula / Malin Head — Ireland's northernmost point. Dramatic and very remote. Only worth it if you have the third day.
- Fanad Head Lighthouse — One of Ireland's most photogenic lighthouses
- Donegal Town — The Diamond (central square) is lively; good base and the best EV charging hub in the county
Cycling note: Roads are narrow, hilly, and quiet. This is the hardest section for wind and terrain but the most rewarding. Don't skip it.
2. Sligo — Aug 13–14 (2 days)
W.B. Yeats country. Gentler than Donegal, excellent beaches.
Must-see:
- Benbulben — The flat-topped mountain that dominates the landscape; Yeats is buried in the churchyard at its foot (Drumcliff). Drive or cycle past — you see it from everywhere.
- Strandhill — Atlantic surf beach with a good food scene and a traditional seaweed bath house (Voya)
- Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery — One of the largest megalithic cemeteries in Europe, older than Newgrange. Free to walk, small entry fee for the main tombs.
- Sligo town — Good food scene, lively for its size; use it as a work base
3. Mayo — Aug 15–17 (3 days)
One of the spiritual and scenic highlights of the route.
Must-see:
- Westport — Best small town in Ireland, regularly voted so. Planned Georgian town on the Carrowbeg River. Best base in Mayo: good pubs, great food, reliable wifi, EV charging.
- Achill Island — Ireland's largest island, connected by a bridge. Keem Bay (pristine blue beach in a cliffside amphitheatre) and the Slievemore deserted village are extraordinary. Excellent, quiet cycling roads.
- Croagh Patrick — Ireland's holiest mountain; iconic cone shape above Clew Bay. The 4h round-trip hike is well worth it on a clear day.
- Céide Fields — The world's most extensive Stone Age monument: 5,000-year-old field systems under the bog. On the north Mayo coast, good detour if passing.
4. Connemara — Aug 18–20 (3 days)
The most haunting landscape in Ireland. Bogland, quartzite mountains, flooded inlets, wild ponies.
Must-see:
- Sky Road (Clifden) — 16km circular coastal road from Clifden with elevated views over the Atlantic and offshore islands. One of Ireland's best cycling roads; manageable even loaded.
- Connemara National Park — Twelve Bens mountain range; bog walks, guided hill walks. Visitor centre at Letterfrack.
- Kylemore Abbey — Gothic castle-turned-Benedictine monastery on a lake with a walled Victorian garden. Touristy but genuinely beautiful.
- Clifden — The "capital" of Connemara; best base for the section. ESB charger here.
- Inishbofin Island — Ferry from Cleggan; quiet island with beaches. Worth it if you have a spare half-day.
Cycling note: The N59 through Connemara is manageable but busy in August. The inland bog roads (L-roads) are magical and almost car-free. Prefer these where they run parallel.
5. Galway — Aug 21–22 (2 days)
Ireland's most vibrant city outside Dublin. University town, Gaeltacht gateway, live music every night.
Must-see:
- Latin Quarter — Medieval streets; Tigh Neachtain pub is the traditional music epicentre. Most pubs have sessions Sun–Thu as well as weekends in August.
- Aran Islands (Inis Mór) — Day trip or overnight from Rossaveal (40 min ferry). Ancient stone forts — Dún Aonghasa perches on a 100m cliff edge. Rent a bike on the island; roads are quiet and flat-ish.
- Salthill Promenade — Walk the prom, kick the wall at the end (local tradition, taken seriously)
- Food: Ard Bia at Nimmos, Cava Bodega, Dela — Galway punches above its weight
Work note: Galway has the best coffee shops and coworking spaces on the entire WAW. Good place to book a longer stay and work for a couple of days.
6. Clare — Aug 23–24 (2 days)
The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher.
Must-see:
- Cliffs of Moher — 8km of sea cliffs up to 214m. Go early (before 9am) or late evening to avoid coach crowds. Walk south from the visitor centre to Hag's Head for the best views without the crowd.
- The Burren — Unique limestone karst landscape. Arctic, Mediterranean, and alpine flowers grow side by side in the cracks. Walk the Green Road above Ballyvaughan or the Burren Way.
- Doolin — Spiritual home of traditional Irish music. Three pubs (McGann's, Gus O'Connor's, McDermott's) with sessions every night in August. Small village, enormous reputation.
- Poulnabrone Dolmen — Striking portal tomb on open Burren limestone; 5,500 years old
7. Kerry — Aug 25–27 (3 days)
The iconic postcard Ireland: peninsulas, dramatic mountains, the best seafood in the country.
Must-see:
- Dingle Peninsula — More intimate than the Ring of Kerry, less touristy, arguably more beautiful. The Slea Head Drive (25km loop from Dingle town) passes 6th-century beehive huts (clochán), ruined stone forts, the Blasket Islands viewpoint, and Connor Pass (highest mountain pass in Ireland driveable by road). Dingle town has the best seafood and music on the peninsula.
- Ring of Kerry — The classic 180km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula: Killarney National Park, Kenmare, Waterville, Portmagee. Busy with tourist coaches — drive or cycle counterclockwise (opposite to the coach direction) to avoid head-on traffic.
- Skellig Michael — UNESCO World Heritage Site; early Christian monastic settlement on a sea stack 12km offshore. Puffins, 618 stone steps, Star Wars filming location. Book months in advance — if you haven't yet, check now. Boats from Portmagee and Ballinskelligs.
- Killarney National Park — The lakes, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, the Gap of Dunloe. Good final day before heading to Dublin.
Cycling note: The Dingle Peninsula is excellent — quiet roads, spectacular scenery, manageable gradients. The Ring of Kerry has significant traffic in summer; if cycling, start before 8am and go counterclockwise.
EV Charging on the Wild Atlantic Way
The west coast has significant charging gaps. The ESB ecars network is the primary public infrastructure.
General rule: Charge at every opportunity in towns. If you're leaving somewhere with a charger, top up even if you don't strictly need to.
Section-by-section
| Section | Situation | Key chargers |
|---|---|---|
| Donegal | Sparse — worst section | Letterkenny (22kW ESB), Donegal Town (ESB), Bundoran. Gaps of 60–80km on the coast road. |
| Sligo | Reasonable | Sligo town has multiple ESB incl. fast; Enniscrone has a slow charger |
| Mayo | Patchy | Westport (ESB fast), Castlebar, Ballina. Achill Island: slow charger at Keel — charge in Westport before going out to Achill. |
| Connemara | Most challenging after Donegal | Clifden (ESB 22kW); Letterfrack is a dead zone. Galway city is the reliable anchor before and after. |
| Galway | Good | Multiple ESB rapid chargers; Tesla SC at Galway Retail Park. Full recharge stop. |
| Clare | Reasonable | Ennis (ESB fast), Ennistymon, Lahinch. No rapid charger at Cliffs of Moher — charge in Ennis or Lahinch first. |
| Kerry | Good in towns | Killarney (ESB fast + Tesla SC), Tralee, Dingle (22kW ESB), Kenmare. Ring of Kerry road has no chargers mid-circuit — start with a full battery. |
Critical gaps:
- Connemara: Clifden ↔ Westport via coast road (~90km) has no public charger mid-route. Charge fully at one end.
- Donegal coast: Slieve League / Glencolmcille area has no chargers. Base yourself in Killybegs or Donegal Town and do day trips.
Tips:
- Most rural ESB chargers are 22kW AC — plan 1–1.5h stops in smaller towns
- Ask your accommodation about charging on arrival — many Kerry and Galway hotels now have 7kW sockets
- Apps: ESB ecars (Ireland), Zap-Map (broader)
Links:
Practical Cycling Notes
- Bike: For a multi-week loaded tour, bring your own. Hire is available in Galway, Westport, Killarney, Dingle if not.
- Panniers vs backpack: Panniers essential — Atlantic headwinds on exposed sections are relentless
- Camping: Wild camping with landowner permission is legal; good sites along the whole route
- Hostels: An Óige (Irish Youth Hostel Association) has properties at key WAW points
- Food: Never more than 20km from a pub serving hot food. Pubs stop food service around 9pm.
- Weather: August is best but pack waterproofs — Atlantic squalls arrive without warning
- Gaeltacht: Connemara, north Mayo coast, and Donegal are Irish-speaking. Signs are Irish-first. Any attempt at Irish is met with delight.
- Workation bases: Westport, Galway, Dingle, and Killarney all have good cafés and reliable wifi