Till Mueller
2791647d49
- New 03-iom-ferry.md: Steam Packet from Liverpool or Heysham, booking notes, EV on board - WAW: full section-by-section EV charging table (Donegal to Kerry) Highlights the two critical gaps: Connemara (Clifden–Westport) and Donegal coast Adds ESB ecars/Zap-Map links and practical overnight charging tips
10 KiB
Wild Atlantic Way — Cycling Ireland's West Coast
Type: Long-distance cycling route Total length: ~2,500 km (full route; select sections as suits) Recommended: 2–4 weeks for a meaningful section; 6+ weeks for the full coast Best for: Cycling, coastal scenery, cliffs, peninsulas, Gaeltacht culture
What Is It
The Wild Atlantic Way is a signed coastal driving/cycling route along Ireland's entire west coast, from Donegal in the north to Cork in the south. It is the world's longest defined coastal route. The west coast is the windward side of Ireland — constantly changing light, dramatic cliffs, remote peninsulas, and a chain of Irish-speaking (Gaeltacht) communities keeping old culture alive.
Direction & Strategy
Prevailing wind: From the southwest. Cycling south to north (Cork → Donegal) puts the wind at your back for Atlantic-facing sections.
Recommended start if arriving Belfast: Drive/ferry to Donegal and cycle south. More dramatic landscapes in the north; wind becomes less critical if you plan shorter days.
Recommended start if arriving Dublin: Head south to Kerry and cycle north — wind-assisted, builds to the Connemara/Mayo climax.
This guide covers north to south (Belfast/Donegal → Cork), which is the official signposted direction.
Key Sections (North to South)
1. Donegal — 1–3 days
The wildest, most remote part of the route. Few tourists, dramatic cliffs, ancient towers.
Must-see:
- Slieve League Cliffs — Three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, a fraction of the crowds. The highest sea cliffs in Europe accessible on foot. Walk the "One Man's Pass" ridge for vertigo and views.
- Glenveagh National Park — Vast bog and mountain wilderness; red deer, golden eagles reintroduced. Castle on a loch.
- Inishowen Peninsula — Ireland's northernmost point (Malin Head). Dramatic and very remote.
- Fanad Head Lighthouse — One of Ireland's most photogenic lighthouses
- Donegal Town — Small but the Diamond (central square) is lively; good base
Cycling note: Roads are narrow, hilly, and quiet. This is the hardest section but also the most rewarding.
2. Sligo — 1–2 days
W.B. Yeats country. Gentler than Donegal, with excellent beaches.
Must-see:
- Benbulben — The flat-topped mountain that dominates the landscape; Yeats is buried in the churchyard at its foot (Drumcliff)
- Strandhill & Enniscrone — Atlantic surf beaches; Strandhill has good food and a seaweed bath house
- Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery — One of the largest and oldest megalithic cemeteries in Europe (older than Newgrange and Stonehenge)
- Sligo town — Good food scene, lively for its size
3. Mayo — 2–3 days
One of the spiritual and scenic highlights of the route.
Must-see:
- Croagh Patrick — Ireland's holiest mountain; pilgrims climb it barefoot on the last Sunday of July. The cone-shaped summit above Clew Bay is one of Ireland's iconic views.
- Achill Island — Ireland's largest island, connected by a bridge. Keem Bay (a pristine blue beach in a cliffside amphitheatre) and the deserted village on the slopes of Slievemore are both extraordinary. Excellent cycling.
- Westport — Best small town in Ireland, regularly voted so. Planned Georgian town on the Carrowbeg River. Good pubs, great food, base for Achill and Croagh Patrick.
- Céide Fields — The world's most extensive Stone Age monument: 5,000-year-old field systems, houses, and tombs preserved under the bog
4. Connemara — 2–3 days
The most haunting landscape in Ireland. Bogland, quartzite mountains, flooded inlets, wild ponies.
Must-see:
- Connemara National Park — Twelve Bens mountain range; bog walks, guided hill walks. Visitor centre at Letterfrack.
- Sky Road (Clifden) — Circular coastal road from Clifden with elevated views over the Atlantic and offshore islands. One of Ireland's best cycling roads.
- Kylemore Abbey — Gothic castle-turned-Benedictine monastery on a lake; stunning setting
- Inishbofin Island — Ferry from Cleggan; quiet island with beaches and good walking
- Clifden — The "capital" of Connemara; good base for the area
Cycling note: The N59 through Connemara is manageable but busy in summer. Inland bog roads are magical and quiet.
5. Galway — 1–2 days
Ireland's most vibrant city outside Dublin. University town, Gaeltacht gateway, live music every night.
Must-see:
- Latin Quarter — Medieval streets; Tigh Neachtain pub is the traditional music epicentre
- Aran Islands — Ferry from Rossaveal or Doolin. Inis Mór is the largest: ancient stone forts (Dún Aonghasa teeters on a 100m cliff edge), limestone "moonscape," cycling on quiet roads. Stay overnight for the full effect.
- Salthill Promenade — Walk the prom, kick the wall at the end (local tradition)
- Spanish Arch — Medieval arch on the river; small stone market area
6. Clare — 1–2 days
The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher.
Must-see:
- Cliffs of Moher — 8km of sea cliffs up to 214m. Ireland's most visited natural attraction. Go early morning or late evening to avoid the worst crowds. The walk south from the visitor centre to Hag's Head is excellent.
- The Burren — A unique limestone karst landscape covering 250km². Arctic, Mediterranean, and alpine flowers grow side by side. Walk the Green Road above Ballyvaughan or any of the looped trails.
- Doolin — The spiritual home of traditional Irish music. Three pubs (McGann's, Gus O'Connor's, McDermott's) with sessions every night. Small village, big reputation.
- Poulnabrone Dolmen — Portal tomb on the Burren; 5,500 years old
7. Kerry — 2–3 days
The iconic postcard Ireland: ring roads, peninsulas, dramatic mountains.
Must-see:
- Dingle Peninsula — More intimate than the Ring of Kerry, less touristy, arguably more beautiful. The Slea Head Drive (25km loop from Dingle town) passes beehive huts (clochán), ruined forts, the Blasket Islands viewpoint, and Connor Pass. Dingle town has great seafood and traditional music.
- Ring of Kerry — The classic 180km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula: Killarney National Park, Kenmare, Waterville, Cahersiveen, Portmagee (Skelligs gateway). Busy with tourist coaches in summer — cycle it or drive counterclockwise to avoid the coach direction.
- Skellig Michael — UNESCO World Heritage Site; early Christian monastic settlement on a sea stack 12km offshore. Puffins, dramatic steps, Star Wars filming location. Book months in advance. Boats from Portmagee and Ballinskelligs.
- Killarney National Park — The lakes, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, and the Gap of Dunloe (a glacial valley; hire a jaunting car or walk)
Cycling note: The Dingle Peninsula is excellent for cycling. The Ring of Kerry is doable but has significant traffic in summer — a local cycle sportive (Ring of Kerry Charity Cycle) runs in July.
EV Charging on the Wild Atlantic Way
The west coast has significant charging gaps — this requires more planning than mainland Europe. The ESB ecars network is the primary public infrastructure in Ireland.
General strategy: Charge at every opportunity in towns, don't rely on finding a charger in remote areas. A rule of thumb: if you're leaving a town with a charger, top up even if you don't strictly need to.
Section-by-section charging
| Section | Situation | Key chargers |
|---|---|---|
| Donegal | Sparse — worst section for EV | Letterkenny (22kW ESB), Donegal Town (ESB), Bundoran. Gaps of 60–80km on the coast road. |
| Sligo | Reasonable | Sligo town has multiple ESB chargers incl. fast; Enniscrone has a slow charger |
| Mayo | Patchy | Westport (ESB fast), Castlebar, Ballina. Achill Island has a slow charger at Keel — charge in Westport before going to Achill. |
| Connemara | Most challenging after Donegal | Clifden has an ESB charger (22kW); Letterfrack area is a dead zone. Galway city is the reliable anchor before and after. |
| Galway | Good | Multiple ESB rapid chargers in city; Tesla SC at Galway Retail Park. Treat this as a full recharge stop. |
| Clare | Reasonable | Ennis (ESB fast), Ennistymon, Lahinch. No rapid charger at Cliffs of Moher — charge in Ennis or Lahinch first. |
| Kerry | Good coverage in towns | Killarney (ESB fast + Tesla SC), Tralee, Dingle (22kW ESB), Kenmare. Ring of Kerry road has no chargers mid-circuit — full battery before starting. |
Tips
- App: ESB ecars app for live availability; Zap-Map Ireland for broader network view
- Speed reality: Most rural ESB chargers are 22kW AC (fast, not rapid) — plan 1–1.5h stops in smaller towns
- Accommodation: Ask when booking if the property has a socket or charger — many rural B&Bs and hotels in Kerry and Galway now have at least a 7kW home charger
- Connemara gap: The stretch from Clifden north to Westport (~90km of coast road) is the most exposed gap on the whole route. Charge fully in Clifden or Westport before attempting the other direction.
- Donegal gap: The Slieve League / Glencolmcille area has no public chargers. Plan a there-and-back with Killybegs or Donegal Town as your base with charging.
Useful links
Practical Cycling Notes
- Bike hire: Available in major towns (Galway, Westport, Killarney, Dingle). For a serious tour, bring your own.
- Panniers vs backpack: Panniers strongly recommended — the headwinds on Atlantic-exposed roads are brutal
- Camping: Wild camping is legal in Ireland with landowner permission; good campsites along the whole route
- Hostels: Abundant, especially in tourist towns; An Óige (Irish Youth Hostel Association) has properties on the route
- Food: You will never be more than 20km from a shop or pub. Hot food available in most pubs until early evening.
- Weather: August is the best month but expect rain — pack waterproofs. Atlantic squalls can arrive fast.
- Gaeltacht areas: Parts of Connemara, Mayo coast, and Donegal are Irish-speaking. Signs are in Irish first (with English below). People are delighted if you try even one word.